THE TIYUL

I went north, tzafona, with my hostess Nina and her wonderful daughter Lilach.  First we went to Zippori.  Zippori is an incredible site that spans 1000 years from Roman/Jewish, Byzantine to the Crusaders.  Often these three distinct cultures are features of one structure.

Everything that you need could be found here, a theatre, bathhouses (plumbing), a synagogue, churches, and of course a fortress from the Crusades.  The walls of the fortress are six feet thick, with narrow windows facing north, south, east and west. 

The Jewish history of Zippori is incredible.  Why?  Judah HaNasi compiled the Mishnah here.  Sure, it didn't happen overnight.  From around 200 BCE to 200 CE (Common Era), Torah commentaries and insights into Jewish law were discussed and written down.  The Mishnah was 'completed' around 200 CE.  Why here? Jerusalem was sacked by the Romans in 70 CE.  Those that weren't forced into slavery and brought to Rome, escaped north.  Rabbi Judah HaNasi moved to Zippori with the Sanhedrin (the highest institution of Jewish law).  Rabbi Judah was asked how he could tolerate the baths (and implied immorality)  He responded, that the sculptures (idols) are looking at him.  He simply doesn't look at them!

We are familiar with the main players from this time.  When Israel was conquered by Pompeii's army in 63 BCE, the governor of Syria declared Zippori the capital of the Galilee.  When the first revolt against the Roman (66 CE) the Jews in Zippori made a treaty with the Roman army.

Zippori is mentioned frequently in the Talmud as a city with 18 synagogues, a little like California St., in Chicago (it once had 17 synagogues).
 

The mosaics in the synagogue and the Roman/Dionysus house are gorgeous.  The synagogue mosaics are in Hebrew, Greek and Aramaic.  They feature Jewish motifs and Bible stories. 

Plus, this great mosaic of the Astrological/Jewish Calendar, illustrate each month with symbols we recognize today. 

One of the most famous mosaics is "the Mona Lisa of Zippori".  The marvelous chiaroscuro of her face is exceptional. Byzantine art stylized form and flattened surfaces. 

Greek and Byzantine icons are great examples of transitioning social tastes and religious values.

 

The mosaic floor in the Dionysus House also features drinking competitions depicting the life of Dioysus, the god of wine and his worship.

    The Roman amphitheater had 4,500 stone seats!  Contrary to Jewish life and culture, the theater expressed a clear-cut Roman way of life--hedonist and pagan.  The Babylonian Talmud, Avoda Zara 18b comments "Happy is the man who did not go to theaters, and to circuses of those who worship the stars."  Ah oh!  I love theater and the circus!

I'm en route to Kibbutz Hatzerim to visit my friends Saralee and Iri Kassel.  Saralee and I were roommates during Year Course 1967-68.  Shabbat Shalom!